This article originally appeared in Norwegian on nordmat.no. For the original article, please click here.
I had a pilgrimage that really made me understand beer’s magic.
When Norwegians are asked what Norwegian beer culture is, many probably think of lagers and rattle off brands like Ringnes, Hansa and Aas. Others might want to mention micro breweries that the new banner carriers for brewer art. Both answers are correct in their own way, but how did the Norwegian beer culture exist before this?
Looking for beer. To dig in our inheritance of beer culture I took a trip to the village that is most famous for adventure sports, television personalities and Vossakorv. My desire was to experience a centuries-old Scandinavian farm brewer tradition and then divide this family silver with the new generation ølfrelste Norwegians.
After some research I got in touch with Jon Gjerde of Vossaøl who brews traditionally Heimabrygg. He welcomed the next brew round, where it should be made properly gårdsøl to a local barn dance. Otherwise brewed beer Vossa usually a couple times a year, and at feasts. Such has been tradition for hundreds of years.
Jon turned out to be a man of many talents. He has lived a life as self-sufficient animal farmer and simultaneously made their mark in sports. In 2006 he became world champion in Aerobatics with hang glider. But now he focuses on brewing. In addition to being an engaged tradition brewer he started the modern microbrewery Voss brewery with extreme colleagues Dag Jørgensen and Jeanette Lillås. With one foot in the traditional and the modern, they have a unique opportunity to end up in the company of the best and most interesting microbreweries.
Elde house. The fireplace is lit, and the smoke pouring off the over 300 year old building. I am more than a little excited to finally be a part of real gårdsbrygging, and going over the threshold with a certain awe. The hearth is the heart of the room, and we see the flames licking up the sides of the large copper cauldron. The smoke confronts us almost like a wall. The opening in the roof takes off for a bit of smoke, but it is easy to understand that Jon also can smoke food in this house. He explains that tear the house was not only used for brewing, but also to flat bread baking, washing, smoking and curing. In fact, my coat as well innrøkt during the visit that it smelled for weeks afterwards.
For six generations, the family used the aging house, and Jon is proud to lead the tradition. It feels like being led far back in time. The mood is set.
The Nordic common denominator. All the surviving gårdsøltradisjonene around the Nordic countries have one thing in common; Juniper twigs is an important ingredient both for the taste and the antibacterial effect. We took the walk across the field and into the woods, equipped with burlap sacks, to pick sprig. Jon and piers mate Sturle Holstad ruining effectively by branches while explaining that only the freshest and greenest copies are good enough to make beer. The undersigned jumped enthusiastically into a bush and began to help. Jon, who even picked without, offers me a pair of gloves. I thank nicely no, and pieces of me all needlestick palm. What does well some discomfort when it should be brewed good beer?
The rest of the evening goes to recharge for tomorrow. In good company, we are served beer and smoked sheep’s head in the new premises of the modern micro brewery, Voss Brewery. Vossa Brygg and Smalahovetunet is a culinary combination that I recommend everyone to try. Remember that an open mind provide rich rewards.
A gårdsøl are born. We think we are early same story all over, but Jon has already fired up under the big copper boiler. First point is to make einerlåg. Sturle using a rod made of a suitably thick branch to stir into juniper twigs in the boiling water into the pan. Smoke river well in both eyes and nose, and the fresh scent of juniper turn evident throughout. Lagen is slightly herbal tea-like with a delicate and elegant taste.
With juniper Lagen at 80 ° C, it is time to nosh into the grain. Jon has prepared 2/3 minced pilsner malt and 1/3 minced münchenermalt. This is a good mixture to emulsify the corn as was done when the malted even on farms in the past. The mashing is done by Sturle pours einerlåg from the witch’s cauldron to a milk pail where Jon nor in malted. After slightly shaking mash is poured into a larger insulated container. The process of milk can be repeated until it is empty for malt. Mashing on Voss often hold on for up to four hours, but Jon tend to settle with two. Then the wort silt of back in the pot via milk cans, a fairly time-consuming process. Sturle takes the job of firing up a little hell under the boiler. Wort climbs
the temperature, and when soon boiling point. The black copper cauldron with the golden wort in full boil is a wonderful sight and the smell is wonderful. Slightly smoky flavor from the air also draws into the wort.
So it’s time to add a little hops. Jon has selected the German Hallertau Perle, he adds half of the start of the cooking time, and the remainder when the remaining half hour. After a few hours’ cooking approaching brewing its end, and the wort to be introduced for the local Vossa yeast.
Ancient Vossings. Voss of beer soul called kveik. So this is the type of yeast you use here at Voss. You buy it from laboratories in England or USA like most other yeasts to beer brewing. You buy it in fact not at all. For generations, farmers in Voss kept alive in this yeast strain by brew with it.
– This is basically wild yeast. It is alive and always changing.
Jon says that if anything were to happen, it is just to knock on a neighbor. As natural as it is to borrow a cup of sugar borrower Voss liked a cup kveik each other. Traditionally the yeast dried and preserved for the next brew, which easily could be six months away. They did this by inserting a stick with holes through yeast cake, which they then hung up to dry. Today it is more common to have kveiken on a Norway glass stored in the refrigerator. These are hardy yeast that can withstand prolonged storage. We borrow yeast of neighbor and piers veteran Brynjulf Nordheim who are happy to share. Kveiken needs no yeast starter, and can be dumped straight in brewing. Perhaps the most amazing with kveiken is it to ferment at 40 ° C, which is about twice as much as a normal hot real ales. This is an absolutely insane temperature to ferment for most other than Voss. The beer ferments quickly and efficiently and is finished in two days. Jon tells of a friend who witnessed the temperature fell to 37 ° C, which caused great concern.
Kveiken is perhaps the most unique aspect of home brewing in Voss. So unique that one of ølverdenens author legends, the late Michael Jackson, made a visit to Voss in 1993. Afterwards, he wrote that Voss beer is one of the oldest surviving beer in Europe, and represents a “missing link” in the European brewer culture.
Vossa Brygg and Smalahovetunet is a culinary combination that I recommend everyone to try. Remember that an open sinngir rich rewards.
So, how tastes home brewed from Voss? The first thing that struck me was that it was an incredibly delicate and elegant fruity beer with a hint of fresh acidity. Then came the depth and complexity into with hints of caramelized malt and forest flora. Together was exciting flavors and seductive in the way that only a good handmade farm product can be.
My pilgrimage to Voss, to become better acquainted with the traditional Norwegian beer culture, is one I can recommend all ølnysgjerrige Norwegians. For the future I hope these traditions will be brought forward from the darkness and made available through modern interpretations, so that we can all be proud depreciation and enjoy the genuine Norwegian great traditions.
Text: Amund Polden Arnesen Photo: Tommy Andresen
Look for Vossaøl kegs in your area starting late March to early April!