Ciders, that is. While we rejoice in the trend that harkens back to our own country’s early fermentable pastimes, do we owe a debt of gratitude to those of northern Spain?
Whether historic conjecture is true or not – people from the Asturias region of Spain may have shared their beverage with the Roman army, who subsequently invaded Britain (bringing along cider), who emigrated colonists to America (bringing along cider), who found apple trees with which to practice their cider-making craft – certainly we can recognize Spain as one of the great cider making regions of the world.
Many of the new cider devotees are familiar with English ciders, the resurgence of American ciders, and even the cidres of Normandy. But Spanish ciders, from a country more usually associated with wine? Of course! The northern climes are perfect for apple orchards, and whether we’re talking of the sidra of Asturias or the sagardoa of the Basque region these tart, still, artisan ciders are yet another dimension to explore.
I prefer the acidic sagardoa expressions that are a perfect foil for a slice of chorizo, an elegant match with salt cod & peppers, and a bit of the famed Idiazábal cheese, some nuts, and quince for dessert.
Many in this country associate cider with the Autumn season, but that is our predisposition to think of apple-picking festivities and the misguidance of advertisement. Sure apples are harvested in the fall, but they need time to ferment! In Spain, the ciders are not ready to drink until January when they are copiously consumed from a pour straight from the barrel. To prepare for the Spring & Summer months, the cider is then bottled – and, fortunately, shipped to us in the States. By May, and the latest sagardoa production is arriving!
Cider consumption in Spain can be quite entertaining as well. Along with the gastronomic delights is the incredible skill of the escanciador – the cider thrower – who pours the liquid from overhead, perfectly finding its way into the awaiting glass some three or four feet below. Impressive! Kids, don’t try this at home; rather, practice with water first until you hone your technique. This practice, however, serves a vital function as well as the aesthetic one – it aerates the cider, softens it, and mellows the acidity. One truly cannot fully appreciate a fine glass of sagardoa without this ritual. It is a true cultural moment. Pass the cod fritters.
So grab a bottle or two for your next dinner party. Impress your friends with your cider throwing talent (or lack thereof), and revel over your assortment of tapas.
We owe it to the Spaniards.