If the former owners of the house in Dominikanerstraße 6 had had less self-esteem and initiative, today we would know much less about the history of the Schlenkerla Tavern building. As they were constantly building on, buying additional land and – mostly because of that – having trouble with their pious neighbours, the inhabitants of the powerful Dominican monastery, many trial records and land register entries give us important information about the former building.
The history of the Schlenkerla Tavern building starts together with that of the monastery, which was founded in the 14th century.
In the time between 1405 and 1615 the building was sold a number of times. During the 30 Year’s War (1618-1648) the house was destroyed and rebuilt. The reports before 1678 are scarce, but in that year the brewery was founded and from that time on one can find more and more in the records.
Since 1678 there have been numerous owners of the brewery. Very important of whom was Johann Wolfgang Heller, who took over in mid 18th century. He already owned an old rock-cellar for beer storage up on the hill “Kaulberg” just outside Bamberg. Later on, this storage facility was moved to another hill, called “Stephansberg”, which is nowadays in the middle of town. In the 19th and 20th century the brewery was moved step by step to that location just above the ancient cellars on Stephansberg. In the trade-registry the official name of the brewery is “Heller-Bräu”, even if everybody just calls it Schlenkerla.
1877 was a very important year for the tavern, as Andreas Graser became the new owner. He was a little bit handicapped and moved his arms in a funny way when he walked. In the Franconian dialect this is called “schlenkern”. People soon started to call the place Schlenkerla, and the name has remained until today.
In 1907 his son Michael Graser took over the brewery. More and more guests came to the tavern, and a part of the former monastery was taken on lease from the Bavarian government, which had become the owner during secularization. The paintings in the beautiful gothic-arched sealing of this “Dominikanerklause” were being restored by the Germanic Museum of Nürnberg in the 1920s.
In 1960 this part of the tavern was bought from the state and Michael Graser’s daughter, Elisabeth, and her husband, Jakob Trum, took over the brewery. In 1967 they handed over the brewery and tavern to their son German Trum…
Meet the building:
Schlenkerla – in Bamberg a magical word with many meanings. Strangers will hear it from the taxi driver or, at the latest, in the hotel after the recommendation of a visit to the cathedral. The three syllables don’t just stand for the beautiful half-timbered house and the Smokebeer, tapped directly from oak-wood kegs, but for much more.
There is far more to Schlenkerla than delicious food and drink. If you would rather drink you beer by yourself, be forewarned: it is almost impossible to avoid relaxed, cheerful conversations at the wooden tables. In everyday life the ordinary Franconian acts somewhat reserved when dealing with strangers, but that characteristic is left outside when entering the Smokebeer paradise.
And that is a tradition. For centuries the tasty, dark brown brew has made our guests happy and loosened their tongues. As in the past, when high clerics sat at the same table with farmers, today the musician from the Bamberg Symphonic Orchestra drinks his beer next to the factory worker. Original Schlenkerla Smokebeer levels the differences between classes. It brings together the stranger with the local.
Here and there, between laughter and talk, you might see some serious faces. Ever since Bamberg has had a University, worlds have been changed in Schlenkerla – at least theoretically: the meaning of God has been newly defined or an alternative view of history has been taken. Students of the first semester are most passionate in this, but after the third or fourth beer they often lose their scholarly seriousness.
In the summertime – the house having been adorned with geraniums – the inner courtyard comes to life again. The places and tables outside are as popular as the ones inside. It is very common to see a couple in their best dress – having just come from a midday concert – sitting next to a family in hiking dress – exhausted after a long walk. Thirst binds them all together.
Schlenkerla is the secret center not just of the old town, but of the whole of Bamberg and its surroundings. Even the city fathers apparently see it like this, as they bring their guests from all parts of the world with pride to Schlenkerla. Its uniqueness just doesn’t seem to fit the usual definition of hospitality: it is more.
The “Old Inn”
The wooden beams of the low ceiling used to be painted with ox-blood for protection. Over the centuries they thereby obtained their dark color. At the walls there are numerous historic engravings of Bamberg, like the “World Chronicle of Schedel” from the year 1493 and in addition the line of ancestors of the Trum/Graser family.
Dominikanerklause with arched ceiling from 1310
The “Klause” used to be the house chapel of the dominican monastery and was used for daily prayer. During secularization the monastery was closed down and all its buildings were nationalized by the state of Bavaria. The Klause was then later on sold to the Trum/Graser family. The ceiling is decorated with a 15th century neo-Gothic painting on gold leaf ground.
Schlenkerla outside sign
The outside sign shows a depiction of Andreas Graser, the original “Schlenkerla”. Above a blue lion symbolising the old house-name from the first documentation in the year 1405. Front left a sixpointed star, the traditional guilde-sign of the franconian brewers, also called beerstar or brewstar.
Many have tried to describe Schlenkerla, but no comprehensive description is possible, one has to experience it to understand!
For more information please visit: Aecht Schlenkerla